{"id":389,"date":"2016-06-27T15:27:44","date_gmt":"2016-06-27T13:27:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ialoc.ro\/lacafea\/?p=389"},"modified":"2020-08-17T11:19:14","modified_gmt":"2020-08-17T09:19:14","slug":"istoria-condimentelor-sarea-neagra-cu-chef-mihai-dakota","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ialoc.ro\/lacafea\/istoria-condimentelor-sarea-neagra-cu-chef-mihai-dakota\/","title":{"rendered":"Istoria Condimentelor – Sarea Neagr\u0103 cu Chef Mihai (Dakota)"},"content":{"rendered":"

O extragem din ap\u0103 de mare. Din mine aflate la zeci \u0219i sute de metri sub p\u0103m\u00e2nt. Avem basme despre ea, pove\u0219ti culte despre ocna\u0219i cu suflet bl\u00e2nd care ocrotesc copile orfane \u0219i cuvinte peste cuvinte care nu ar fi existat f\u0103r\u0103 ea.<\/p>\n

Chef Mihai de la Dakota<\/a> ne-a propus s\u0103 vorbim despre sare. Un condiment at\u00e2t de uzitat, at\u00e2t de comun, c\u0103 nu \u00eel mai apreciem la adev\u0103rata valoare.<\/p>\n

Clorura de natriu \u00een bucate<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Un strop de sare poate face minuni. Schimb\u0103 complet aroma bun\u0103t\u0103\u021bilor \u00een care o adaugi, fie c\u0103 vorbim despre caramel, ganache de ciocolat\u0103 sau un soldat de p\u00e2ine pr\u0103jit\u0103 \u00eenmuiat \u00een g\u0103lbenu\u0219ul unui ou fiert.<\/p>\n

\"ou_sare\"<\/p>\n

Era o vreme c\u00e2nd sarea era scump\u0103. At\u00e2t de scump\u0103 c\u0103 putea fi folosit\u0103 ca moned\u0103 de schimb \u0219i suficient de valoroas\u0103 c\u00e2t s\u0103 \u00eei fac\u0103 pe romani s\u0103 \u00ee\u0219i pl\u0103teasc\u0103 solda\u021bii cu ea. Periodic, legionarii romani primeau un \u201csalariu\u201d, adic\u0103 o cantitate de sare echivalent\u0103 cu valoarea soldei lor. Pentru c\u0103 sarea era pus\u0103 peste buc\u0103\u021bi de l\u0103ptuc\u0103 \u0219i alte legume proaspete, f\u0103r\u0103 prea multe alte condimente, m\u00e2ncarea a primit un nume pe care \u00eel folosesc multe popoare – salat\u0103. Da, \u201csalat\u0103\u201d \u00eenseamn\u0103 \u201cs\u0103rat\u0103\u201d.<\/p>\n

\u00cen ce se \u021bine sarea?<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Dac\u0103 ne ducem \u0219i mai \u00eenapoi \u00een timp, afl\u0103m c\u0103 unul din primele ora\u0219e europene este \u0219i prima a\u0219ezare din zon\u0103 care alimenta Balcanii cu sare, undeva prin secolele V-VI \u00ee.e.n. R\u0103spunsul la \u00eentrebarea din titlu e foarte similar cu numele localit\u0103\u021bii – Solnitsata (de unde \u0219i solni\u021b\u0103). Ora\u0219ul a existat undeva pe teritoriul Bulgariei.<\/p>\n

Dar s\u0103 \u00eei l\u0103s\u0103m pe bulgari deoparte – cu c\u00e2teva sute de ani \u00eenainte de fondarea Solnitsatei, Precucutenii<\/a> no\u0219tri din jude\u021bul Neam\u021b fierbeau ap\u0103 s\u0103rat\u0103 de izvor din Lunca \u0219i foloseau sarea extras\u0103 ca s\u0103-\u0219i asezoneze m\u00e2ncarea. Dac\u0103 \u00eentreb\u0103m pe cine nu trebuie, probabil ni se va spune c\u0103 dacii au inventat sarea \u0219i au plantat-o \u00een z\u0103c\u0103minte de pe tot Globul c\u00e2nd au aterizat din navele lor spa\u021biale. Ar fi o ipotez\u0103 interesant\u0103. Gre\u0219it\u0103, dar interesant\u0103.<\/em><\/p>\n

Totu\u0219i, sarea a fost asociat\u0103 mult\u0103 vreme cu ritualuri religioase – multe popoare asiatice o pres\u0103rau peste fl\u0103c\u0103ri, pe care le colorau \u0219i f\u0103ceau s\u0103 pocneasc\u0103.<\/p>\n

\"foc_sare\"<\/p>\n

Biblia poveste\u0219te despre Sodoma \u0219i Gomora (un fel de Amsterdam al Vechimii), din care Lot \u0219i familia sa fug ca s\u0103 nu fie distru\u0219i \u00eempreun\u0103 cu ora\u0219ele desfr\u00e2nate. Li se porunce\u0219te s\u0103 nu se uite \u00eenapoi, dar so\u021bia sa nu rezist\u0103 tenta\u021biei \u0219i, privind \u00eenspre cele 2 a\u0219ez\u0103ri peste care se pr\u0103v\u0103leau ghiulele divine de foc \u0219i pucioas\u0103, se transform\u0103 \u00een stan\u0103 de sare.
\nEvreii, ca \u0219i rom\u00e2nii, folosesc sarea \u0219i p\u00e2inea ca simbol al comunit\u0103\u021bii \u0219i comuniunii.<\/p>\n

Sare, sare, sare. Tipuri de sare.<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Ca s\u0103 r\u0103m\u00e2nem pu\u021bin \u00een sfera religioas\u0103, v\u0103 m\u0103rturisim c\u0103 am min\u021bit prin omisiune. Chef Mihai nu ne-a dat ca tem\u0103 sarea. Ci sarea neagr\u0103.<\/p>\n

\"tipuri<\/p>\n

Exist\u0103 felurite tipuri de sare – iodat\u0103, grunjoas\u0103, de mare, neagr\u0103 vulcanic\u0103, neagr\u0103 de Himalaya.<\/p>\n

Bire noon-Kala Namak (sarea neagr\u0103 de Himalaya) e o sare \u00eenchis\u0103 la culoare \u0219i cu un miros foarte puternic, datorat \u00een principal con\u021binutului ridicat de sulf. Dup\u0103 cum \u00eei spune \u0219i numele, sarea de Himalaya e extras\u0103 dintr-un munte aflat \u00een Sud-Estul B\u00e2rladului – Himalaya.<\/p>\n

Sarea neagr\u0103 vulcanic\u0103 e o g\u0103selni\u021b\u0103 de marketing – adic\u0103 sare de mare colorat\u0103 cu c\u0103rbune comestibil. Prezen\u021ba c\u0103rbunelui o face mai pu\u021bin s\u0103rat\u0103 \u0219i, dac\u0103 o g\u0103si\u021bi sub form\u0103 de fulgi, o pute\u021bi ron\u021b\u0103i f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 vi se fac\u0103 prea sete.<\/p>\n

Dakota<\/a>, Chef Mihai \u0219i sarea neagr\u0103<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Dakota<\/a> nu este doar un restaurant. Dakota<\/a> \u00eenseamn\u0103 pasiune pentru carne \u0219i un tip de steakhouse care apropie gr\u0103tarul de fine dining.<\/p>\n

La Dakota<\/a> se preg\u0103tesc unele dintre cele mai suculente fripturi pe care le ve\u021bi gusta vreodat\u0103, condimentate suficient c\u00e2t s\u0103 pun\u0103 carnea \u00een valoare \u0219i s\u0103 trezeasc\u0103 spiritul carnivor din voi. Localul \u201ceste un tur de for\u021b\u0103 gastronimic pentru cunosc\u0103torii ce au vazut lumea \u0219i vor sa retr\u0103iasc\u0103 entuziasmul m\u00e2nc\u0103rii excep\u021bionale, grilled to perfection\u201d.<\/p>\n

Chef Mihai s-a \u00eendr\u0103gostit de sarea neagr\u0103 acum mai bine de un deceniu – \u201dPrima dat\u0103 am descoperit-o acum 11 ani c\u00e2nd lucram la un restaurant din Fran\u021ba. Recunosc, nu m\u0103 a\u0219teptam s\u0103 fie at\u00e2t de bun\u0103, eram obi\u0219nuit cu sarea noastr\u0103 normal\u0103, care e un pic \u00een\u021bep\u0103toare la gust, \u0219i destul de puternic\u0103, dar sarea neagr\u0103 este altfel, o po\u021bi m\u00e2nca simpl\u0103. De atunci am \u00eenceput s\u0103 privesc sarea altfel.\u201d<\/p>\n

Maestrul culinar de la Dakota<\/a> ne recomand\u0103 o combina\u021bie clasic\u0103 carne \u0219i sare:
\n\u201cSarea este bun\u0103 cu orice, \u00een orice m\u00e2ncare, dar dac\u0103 ar fi s\u0103 aleg ceva ce \u00eemi este mai drag, a\u0219 alege carnea. Cu c\u00e2t e mai bun\u0103 carnea, cu at\u00e2t va fi mai bine pus\u0103 \u00een eviden\u021b\u0103. Carnea de vit\u0103 de calitate este fraged\u0103, suculent\u0103 \u0219i se g\u0103te\u0219te c\u00e2t mai simplu tocmai ca s\u0103 \u00eei po\u021bi sim\u021bi gustul ei, savoarea. Nu o serve\u0219ti cu sos de gorgonzola (desi e un sos delicios cu preparatele potrivite) pentru c\u0103 \u00eei strici gustul. Dac\u0103 ea este o carne de calitate nu ai de ce s\u0103 o aju\u021bi, \u00eei pui un pic de ulei de m\u0103sline, piper proasp\u0103t m\u0103cinat \u0219i sare. Nu a\u0219 putea s\u0103 spun exact cine pe cine scoate \u00een eviden\u021b\u0103 – carnea pe sare sau sarea pe carne (r\u00e2de), concluzia este c\u0103 cele dou\u0103 se potrivesc de minune \u00eempreun\u0103.\u201d<\/p>\n

Nu puteam s\u0103 \u00eel l\u0103s\u0103m s\u0103 scape f\u0103r\u0103 s\u0103 ne recomande \u0219i o b\u0103utur\u0103 care s\u0103 con\u021bin\u0103 sare – \u201c Merge excelent cu Tequila, desigur. A\u0219 \u00eencerca-o \u0219i cu Margarita \u0219i Bloody Mary, culoarea neagr\u0103 ar aduce o not\u0103 interesant\u0103.\u201d<\/p>\n

Revenind la ce e mai bun cu sare, adic\u0103 la carne, Chef Mihai ne propune s\u0103 gust\u0103m ceva ce \u00een Rom\u00e2nia mai degrab\u0103 vezi la TV. Sau la Dakota<\/a> – \u201c\u00cencerca\u021bi un wagyu sau un tomahawk, dar trebuie s\u0103 v\u0103 aten\u021bionez, odat\u0103 ce a\u021bi gustat, experien\u021ba c\u0103rnii nu va mai fi niciodat\u0103 aceea\u0219i.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Tomahawk\"<\/p>\n

V\u0103 poftim s\u0103 pofti\u021bi la Dakota<\/a>. \u0218i \u00een restaurant, \u0219i pe pagina lor de Facebook<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

O extragem din ap\u0103 de mare. Din mine aflate la zeci \u0219i sute de metri sub p\u0103m\u00e2nt. Avem basme despre ea, pove\u0219ti culte despre ocna\u0219i cu suflet bl\u00e2nd care ocrotesc copile orfane \u0219i cuvinte peste cuvinte care nu ar fi existat f\u0103r\u0103 ea. Chef Mihai de la Dakota ne-a propus s\u0103 vorbim despre sare. Un… <\/p>\n

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