{"id":1315,"date":"2020-09-23T09:52:23","date_gmt":"2020-09-23T07:52:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/ialoc.ro\/lacafea\/?p=1315"},"modified":"2020-11-30T17:22:26","modified_gmt":"2020-11-30T15:22:26","slug":"cosmin-dragomir-ialoc-fest","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ialoc.ro\/lacafea\/cosmin-dragomir-ialoc-fest\/","title":{"rendered":"M\u00e2nc\u0103ruri \u0219i m\u00e2nc\u0103rimi"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

\u00cencep prin a-i mul\u021bumi lui Radu Paraschivescu pentru titlu, cu promisiunea c\u0103 e un \u00eemprumut ocazionat de acest articol \u0219i cu speran\u021ba c\u0103 nu o s\u0103 fac de r\u00e2s jocul lingvistic. \u00cen cei din urm\u0103 ani \u201crom\u00e2nesc\u201d, \u201cdin Rom\u00e2nia\u201d, \u201ctradi\u021bional\u201d<\/em> ori \u201clocal\u201d<\/em> abund\u0103 \u00een discursurile buc\u0103tarilor no\u0219tri care par a \u00eentoarce spatele fascina\u021biei gastronomiei universale \u0219i se las\u0103 sedu\u0219i de un trend ajuns \u0219i la noi, ca mai toate, cu ceva \u00eent\u00e2rziere: glocalismu<\/em><\/strong>l<\/strong><\/em>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

M\u00e2ncarea rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 (aten\u021bie, exist\u0103! \u2013 toate gastronomiile sunt influen\u021bate sau au un specific m\u0103car subcontinental) are parte un tratament de \u00eenfrumuse\u021bare cu de toate: e dus\u0103 la spa \u0219i la sal\u0103, i se pune botox \u0219i silicoane. De multe ori tratamentul func\u021bioneaz\u0103, alteori opera\u021bia reu\u0219e\u0219te dar pacientul e mort. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cei spunem nou\u0103, reinventat\u0103, redescoperit\u0103, recuperat\u0103, reinterpretat\u0103, revizitat\u0103 etc. Sub toate aceste denumiri, chefii g\u0103tesc preparate care au la baz\u0103 ori re\u021bete vechi, fie din c\u0103r\u021bi, fie de la bunici ori produse locale, ori ambele. A\u0219a func\u021bioneaz\u0103 treburile \u00een buc\u0103t\u0103riile moderne \u0219i nici suedezii nu mai m\u0103n\u00e2nc\u0103 precum vikingii \u0219i nici mexicanii ca maya\u0219ii ori aztecii. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Blid – locant\u0103 rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 este locul unde \u00eel g\u0103sim pe Cosmin Dragomir cel mai des<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen ultimii ani am reu\u0219it s\u0103 trecem de la \u201cm\u00e2ndria ambalatorului rom\u00e2n\u201d la m\u00e2ndria produc\u0103torului local. S\u0103 ne c\u0103ut\u0103m livezile de mere, p\u0103durile de hribi, marea de pe\u0219te sau gr\u0103dinile de tomate \u0219i sparanghel. S\u0103 facem vinuri decente \u0219i foarte bune, beri craft, p\u0103linc\u0103 de cire\u0219e de amare, brag\u0103 \u0219i socat\u0103. Dar mai ales s\u0103 c\u0103ut\u0103m \u0219i s\u0103 g\u0103sim consumatori pentru toate acestea. Nu de alta, dar artizanatul nu o s\u0103 coste niciodat\u0103 at\u00e2t de pu\u021bin ca industrialul. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Revenind la gastronomia rom\u00e2neasc\u0103, din ce \u00een ce mai multe restaurante reu\u0219esc s\u0103 aduc\u0103 \u00een fa\u021b\u0103 clien\u021bilor farfurii excelente. S\u0103 ofere experien\u021be gastronomice cu ADN dobrogean ori ardelenesc, s\u0103 v\u00e2nd\u0103 alivenci \u0219i ostropel, caras sau fleici de la porci de Bazna. Recuper\u0103m cu pa\u0219i mici, dar ap\u0103sa\u021bi, c\u00e2te ceva din istoria pastoral\u0103 \u0219i redescoperim oaia. Pe l\u00e2ng\u0103, mai punem o spum\u0103 de trufe, ni\u0219te bulbi de leurd\u0103 murat\u0103, un dolvecel liofilizat. Pentru c\u0103 orezul cu \u0219tevie \u0219i carne de la garni\u021b\u0103 poate fi servit \u0219i cu grij\u0103 la estetic\u0103. De multe ori iese, arat\u0103 bine, avem \u0219i form\u0103 \u0219i fond. Alteori bucatele de inspira\u021bie \u021b\u0103r\u0103neasc\u0103 sunt \u00eembr\u0103cate cu haine noi ca \u00eemp\u0103ratul din poveste, adic\u0103-s goale, \u00een caz c\u0103 a\u021bi crescut cu vloggeri \u0219i youtuberi \u0219i nu cu Hans Christian Andersen \u0219i fra\u021bii Grimm ca genera\u021bia mea, deja dep\u0103\u0219it\u0103.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tr\u0103im o nou\u0103 etap\u0103 gastronomic\u0103 \u0219i cum la baza fiec\u0103rui gest futurist st\u0103 o m\u00e2nc\u0103rime \u00een dos sc\u0103rpinatul apare inevitabil. De cele mai multe ori cu ghioaga recenziilor on-line ale celor care c\u0103utau ceaune cu fasole \u0219i ciolan \u0219i au nimerit la un meniu de degustare, cei care veniser\u0103 la nunt\u0103 pentru platoua\u0219ul cu aperitive \u0219i au dat de flori de dovlecel umplut cu pecorino de oaie, dar mai ales cei care cred c\u0103 un restaurant ac\u0103t\u0103rii cu m\u00e2ncare rom\u00e2neasc\u0103 de secol XXI v-a canibaliza gr\u0103tarul cu mici \u0219i c\u00e2rna\u021bi trandafir din t\u00e2rgul auto. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Un astfel de proces dureaz\u0103, abia am \u00eenceput s\u0103 strig\u0103m p\u00e2rtie, dar la final toat\u0103 lumea o s\u0103 dea m\u00e2ndr\u0103 share ca la post\u0103rile cu vedetele occidentale purt\u00e2nd iile rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Textul a ap\u0103rut \u00een Suplimentul Zile \u0219i Nop\u021bi <\/a>dedicat ialoc fest<\/a> pentru perioada 31 august – 30 septembrie 2020.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cosmin Dragomir <\/em><\/strong>este jurnalist culinar, scrie la <\/em>gastroart.ro<\/em><\/a> \u0219i poveste\u0219te la <\/em>Blid <\/em> \u2013  Locant\u0103 Rom\u00e2neasc\u0103<\/em><\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00cencep prin a-i mul\u021bumi lui Radu Paraschivescu pentru titlu, cu promisiunea c\u0103 e un \u00eemprumut ocazionat de acest articol \u0219i cu speran\u021ba c\u0103 nu o s\u0103 fac de r\u00e2s jocul lingvistic. \u00cen cei din urm\u0103 ani \u201crom\u00e2nesc\u201d, \u201cdin Rom\u00e2nia\u201d, \u201ctradi\u021bional\u201d ori \u201clocal\u201d abund\u0103 \u00een discursurile buc\u0103tarilor no\u0219tri care par a \u00eentoarce spatele fascina\u021biei gastronomiei universale… <\/p>\n

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